In general, I prefer my cocktails on the lean and mean side, such as a classic gin Martini or the bourbon-based Old Fashioned. Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule. For me, these include a well-crafted Cosmopolitan (made with real cranberry juice, Cointreau, and a fine citrus-vodka) and the Mai Tai.

When I lived away from Hawaiʻi nei, I developed quite an affinity for the Mai Tai, which always felt like sunshine in the cup. According to my Internet bartender of choice, Mr. Robert Hess,  the Mai Tai was created back in 1944 at Victor “Trader Vic” Bergeron at his Trader Vic’s restaurant in Oakland, California. The story goes that a few guests from Tahiti tasted it and exclaimed, “Maitaʻi roa aʻe!” Often, this phrase is translated as “Out of this world!”. But to my Hawaiian ears, it seems more like “Really, really good!” In any case, the word maitaʻi stuck, but the glottal stop was eliminated, leading to the twangy “my-tie” pronunciation. Thankfully, the quality of this tropical cocktail surpasses any minor aversion its name may produce.

Where to Drink It

Despite its fame, it’s hard to find an exceptional Mai Tai. The worst can taste like alcohol and lead to a headache more memorable than the drink itself. But there are a few Oʻahu establishments that do offer a fine Mai Tai. For instance, the Mai Tai in the photos above comes from the Mai Tai Bar at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel at Helumoa, Waikīkī. The outdoor bar offers a few sophisticated variations of the original recipe. I personally prefer the Royal Mai Tai, which includes fresh squeezed pineapple, fresh squeezed orange juice, cherry-vanilla purée, Bacardi Superior,  Cointreau, and Amaretto Di Disaronno liqueur topped with Whaler’s Dark Rum.

Another favorite spot is the House without a Key at the Halekūlani at Kawehewehe, Waikīkī. While House without a Key does not offer the variations on the theme, the Mai Tai at the Halekūlani (above) is sophisticated nonetheles. Moreover, it’s a perfect complement for the hula stylings of Ms. Kanoe Miller, who performs at House with a Key from Monday to Saturday.

I have also enjoyed some exceptional Mai Tai at Indigo in Chinatown. But let me offer this caveat: it all depends on the bartender. When I brought a perfumer friend visiting from New York to the Green Room awhile back, a tatted Thai bartender pulled off a Mai Tai with panache. On another night, a young twenty-something behind the bar could only make a sub-par disappointment. I’ll therefore suggest you try a Mai Tai at Indigo on a slower evening, when the youngsters are away and the downtown business crowd seeks real libations.

How to Make It

If you’d like to attempt it, making a Mai Tai ʻono enough that you’ll say “Maitaʻi roa aʻe!” will require that you stock up on a few quality ingredients. The classic recipe below comes from Mr. Robert Hess’ website DrinkBoy. While many do insist on the pineapple garnish, I’d suggest finding a more elegant accompaniment.

1 ounce light rum
1 ounce gold rum
1/2 ounce orange curaçao
1/2 ounce orgeat
1/2 ounce lime juice
Garnish: Float of dark rum, and garnish with speared pineapple chunk and cherry.
Shake with ice. Strain into an ice filled Old Fashioned glass.

Addresses

House without a Key

Halekūlani
2199 Kālia Road
Honolulu, Hawaiʻi 96815
808 923 2311

Indigo

1121 Nuʻuanu Avenue
Honolulu, Hawaiʻi 96817
808 521 2900

Mai Tai Bar

Royal Hawaiian Hotel
2259 Kalākaua Avenue
Honolulu, Hawaiʻi 96815
808 923 7311

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