Lonoikamakahiki! | Celebrating a new season with Kealopiko
Thursday, December 22nd, 2011
HE UA E HIKI MAI | Kealopiko's Nāulu tee for kāne, Makahiki 2011/2012
Head to any hula event, pā‘ina, or even the beach, and you’re likely to run into a vividly colored top or dress with intricate designs, often intertwined with ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i. Undoubtedly, you’ve come across the gorgeous handiwork of Kealopiko. Founded in 2006, the company was born from the vision of three inspiring wāhine: Jamie Makasobe, Ane Bakutis, and Hina Kneubuhl, who help to carry the mana‘o of our kūpuna into the modern day. While the Western calendar is coming to a close, we’re still in the beginning of the Hawaiian Makahiki season—often marked by the arrival of the rains (which has been difficult to miss this season!). With Makahiki here and 2012 right around the corner, it was the perfect time for Kaila Hawai‘i to learn more Kealopiko—now five years strong!—and their mana‘o behind some of the designs from their new collection. Lonoikamakahiki!
When it comes to clothes, we usually hear about about fall or spring collections. Kealopiko, though, features Makahiki and Kū collections. For those people who aren’t yet familiar with Makahiki and Kū, what do they mean for you? Why do you find it important to use these distinctively maoli concepts when it comes to showing your work?
Acknowledging these two important times of the year for us is an opportunity to learn about and reconnect with the knowledge of our kūpuna. The division of the year into times for both Lono and Kū provided our ancestors with a larger organization for things that we wanted to explore in a modern way. Both these akua have myriad manifestations in the natural world – plants, animals, weather phenomenon, and so on. We often choose plants or animals that are fruiting, breeding, or spawning during the two seasons. Designing for rains, clouds, and winds is another way to acknowledge time and place.
KA WAI A KA NĀULU | Kealopiko's Nāulu skirt for wāhine
Speaking of Makahiki, Kealopiko debuted five Makahiki seasons ago. How does it feel to see Kealopiko going to grow five years later?
It is awesome to see that what started as just an idea is now a fully running company with support from so much of our community. I think none of us really anticipated that it would turn into what it has, but looking back after five years it all feels right. And it still feels exciting and alive with potential. We are very thankful to be doing what we do and are deeply grateful to the ‘āina, the kai, our kūpuna, and all the kānaka out there.
And with that anniversary, there are few new additions to the Kealopiko ‘ohana… could you introduce the two new members of the ‘ohana?
This is Manawanui, born to Hina and Kingi on September 20th, and Poohiwi born to Ane and Kekama on October 19th.
HERE COMES THE RAIN AGAIN | Kealopiko's Nāulu tee for wāhine, Makahiki 2011/2012
I notice there are some beautiful, new designs with this Makahiki collection. What was the inspiration behind the Nāulu?
We had been wanting to do a cloud design for ages. We had the main design meeting for this line on Maui and while throwing around ideas about what kind of cloud we could do, the nāulu cloud came up. It is such a prominent feature of Haleakalā and an example of something in our immediate environment that we might not realize has a name and such an interesting story. We also thought it would be timely, as this year is the 25th anniversary of the end of the bombing on Kaho‘olawe.
KAULANA NĀ PUA | Kealopiko's Pua collared tea for kāne, Makahiki 2011/2012
There are so many meanings to the word pua. What is the mo‘olelo behind the Pua design?
Pua is a beautiful word and one that many people are familiar with. One of the ideas was to highlight another meaning of the word besides flower – the one most people know. But the main inspiration behind the design came from Jamie’s work at He‘eia fishpond. The fishpond is a place where pua, baby fish of several species, are nurtured. As descendants of our kūpuna, we also need places where we can grow and be nurtured. And like our fish friends, we are challenged to maintain harmony in the pull of the “tide,” or the many challenges of life.
Five years down, what do you see in Kealopiko’s plans in the year to come?
We will, of course, continue to put out two lines a year, but also hope to expand the scope of products we offer. We have been dabbling in re-purposing old garments to produce things like bags, so you might see more in terms of that. As far as design directions, that one will have to remain a surprise.
MA HEA E KŪ‘AI MAI AI? (WHERE TO BUY)
Kealopiko’s pieces are available at fine retailers throughout nā kai ‘ewalu as well as a few spots on the ‘Āina ‘Ē, even the Big Apple. For more information, visit kealopiko.com.
Images courtesy of Kealopiko
Models: Rosalyn and Austin Kino
