Kaila Hawai'i » Kaila a me Paikini / Style and Fashion

Lonoikamakahiki! | Celebrating a new season with Kealopiko

Kaila Hawai`i — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 06:52:07 +0000

HE UA E HIKI MAI | Kealopiko's Nāulu tee for kāne, Makahiki 2011/2012

Head to any hula event, pā‘ina, or even the beach, and you’re likely to run into a vividly colored top or dress with intricate designs, often intertwined with ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i. Undoubtedly, you’ve come across the gorgeous handiwork of Kealopiko. Founded in 2006, the company was born from the vision of three inspiring wāhine: Jamie Makasobe, Ane Bakutis, and Hina Kneubuhl, who help to carry the mana‘o of our kūpuna into the modern day. While the Western calendar is coming to a close, we’re still in the beginning of the Hawaiian Makahiki season—often marked by the arrival of the rains (which has been difficult to miss this season!). With Makahiki here and 2012 right around the corner, it was the perfect time for Kaila Hawai‘i to learn more Kealopiko—now five years strong!—and their mana‘o behind some of the designs from their new collection. Lonoikamakahiki!

When it comes to clothes, we usually hear about about fall or spring collections. Kealopiko, though, features Makahiki and Kū collections. For those people who aren’t yet familiar with Makahiki and Kū, what do they mean for you? Why do you find it important to use these distinctively maoli concepts when it comes to showing your work?
Acknowledging these two important times of the year for us is an opportunity to learn about and reconnect with the knowledge of our kūpuna. The division of the year into times for both Lono and Kū provided our ancestors with a larger organization for things that we wanted to explore in a modern way. Both these akua have myriad manifestations in the natural world – plants, animals, weather phenomenon, and so on. We often choose plants or animals that are fruiting, breeding, or spawning during the two seasons. Designing for rains, clouds, and winds is another way to acknowledge time and place.

KA WAI A KA NĀULU | Kealopiko's Nāulu skirt for wāhine

Speaking of Makahiki, Kealopiko debuted five Makahiki seasons ago. How does it feel to see Kealopiko going to grow five years later?
It is awesome to see that what started as just an idea is now a fully running company with support from so much of our community. I think none of us really anticipated that it would turn into what it has, but looking back after five years it all feels right. And it still feels exciting and alive with potential. We are very thankful to be doing what we do and are deeply grateful to the ‘āina, the kai, our kūpuna, and all the kānaka out there.

And with that anniversary, there are few new additions to the Kealopiko ‘ohana… could you introduce the two new members of the ‘ohana?
This is Manawanui, born to Hina and Kingi on September 20th, and Poohiwi born to Ane and Kekama on October 19th.

HERE COMES THE RAIN AGAIN | Kealopiko's Nāulu tee for wāhine, Makahiki 2011/2012

I notice there are some beautiful, new designs with this Makahiki collection. What was the inspiration behind the Nāulu?
We had been wanting to do a cloud design for ages. We had the main design meeting for this line on Maui and while throwing around ideas about what kind of cloud we could do, the nāulu cloud came up. It is such a prominent feature of Haleakalā and an example of something in our immediate environment that we might not realize has a name and such an interesting story. We also thought it would be timely, as this year is the 25th anniversary of the end of the bombing on Kaho‘olawe.

KAULANA NĀ PUA | Kealopiko's Pua collared tea for kāne, Makahiki 2011/2012

There are so many meanings to the word pua. What is the mo‘olelo behind the Pua design?
Pua is a beautiful word and one that many people are familiar with. One of the ideas was to highlight another meaning of the word besides flower – the one most people know. But the main inspiration behind the design came from Jamie’s work at He‘eia fishpond. The fishpond is a place where pua, baby fish of several species, are nurtured. As descendants of our kūpuna, we also need places where we can grow and be nurtured. And like our fish friends, we are challenged to maintain harmony in the pull of the “tide,” or the many challenges of life.

Five years down, what do you see in Kealopiko’s plans in the year to come?
We will, of course, continue to put out two lines a year, but also hope to expand the scope of products we offer. We have been dabbling in re-purposing old garments to produce things like bags, so you might see more in terms of that. As far as design directions, that one will have to remain a surprise.

MA HEA E KŪ‘AI MAI AI? (WHERE TO BUY)

Kealopiko’s pieces are available at fine retailers throughout nā kai ‘ewalu as well as a few spots on the ‘Āina ‘Ē, even the Big Apple. For more information, visit kealopiko.com.

Images courtesy of Kealopiko
Models: Rosalyn and Austin Kino

Waikīkī Wrap Up: Q&A with Deena Tearney of UMEE Honolulu

Kaila Hawai`i — Wed, 14 Dec 2011 08:46:55 +0000

IT'S A WRAP! | Designer Deena Tearney, warmly wrapped in a handmade scarf from her mother, is ready for holiday travels.

Smartly chic, Deena Tearney is the up-and-coming island taste-maker behind UMEE Honolulu, now available at Therapy at Kahala Mall and The Kahala Hotel and Resort (a perfect stop après lunch at Plumeria Beach House). Before Deena jetted off for the holidays, the Waikīkī resident took the time to answer a few questions for Kaila Hawai‘i as we bring 2011 to a close.

What do you love most about the holiday season?

To me, the Christmas Spirit is what makes this the most wonderful time of the year. When people smile more, share holiday greetings to passing strangers, and help each other out in small ways, there is an overall feeling of cheer in the air. It’s the best.

You’ve lived in a few different places—not to mention that you travel quite a bit. How is it for you spending the season in the tropics?

It doesn’t exactly feel like the Holidays in the traditional sense, but O‘ahu has a lot to offer. We have a bit of a Holiday routine: We listen to “Mele Kalikimaka” about a thousand times, visit all the Christmas trees in the Waikīkī hotels, request Christmas songs at Lewers Lounge, and check out Honolulu City Lights. Then, we head off to Kentucky and spend Christmas with my husband’s family on their horse farm, hoping for a white Christmas. We are truly blessed.

LOVE IN | UMEE Honolulu's From Hawaii with Love Tee

Speaking of living in the islands, what’s so refreshing about UMEE Honolulu is that it’s is at once island-inspired but cosmopolitan—making it perfect for a Sunday stroll or a weekend jaunt to the West Coast. Which of your pieces would recommend as a gift for that sophisticated island girl who likes to get up and go?

Our new “from Hawaii with love” tee is a really great gift for all those sophisticated gals on your Christmas list. For my city look in San Francisco, I wear it under a blazer with a long necklace and pants. When I’m back on the island, it’s super cute with a denim mini or shorts. I’m also really digging our kimono headbands and think they make unique and stylish gifts or stocking stuffers. There is nothing quite like this accessory.

SIMPLE CHIC | UMEE Honolulu's Kimono Headband

I know you like to pair your favorite UMEE items with pieces from other collections. Since New Year’s is right around the corner, which UMEE piece would you wear for New Year’s Eve and how you would you dress it up for the big night out?

Our black silk strapless dress is my Holiday must-have. It’s a great dress to style for Holiday parties or New Year’s celebrations and is a perfect way to compliment all the amazing accessory options this season – lace tights, fur bag, fur scarf… Can you say “wow?!” This season, I’ll be doing something special and wearing mine with a sparkly white lace knit scarf my Mom made for me.

NEW LOOK | UMEE Honolulu's sleeveless black dress

And how do you plan on ringing in the New Year? Any special wishes or resolutions as we go into 2012?

We are in the middle of purchasing a condo, so we’ll be back on the island for New Year’s. I hope to be welcoming 2012 sipping champagne in our new condo, thick firework smoke outside (it shouldn’t be there but we know it will be!), and surrounded by boxes.

As for 2012, I’m super excited about the launch of our next collection and all the friends we’ll make along the way.

HOLIDAY PICKS FROM UMEE HONOLULU

‘from Hawaii with love’ tee, $23
Kimono headbands, $12
Black silk strapless dress

Available online at UMEE Honolulu. Pieces from UMEE’s current collection are also available at Therapy and The Kahala Hotel and Resort.

“Haute quincaillerie” – Chanel to collaborate with Sears Roebuck

Kaila Hawai`i — Sat, 09 Oct 2010 18:49:07 +0000

On the heels of Karl Lagerfeld’s brilliant Spring 2011 collection, inspired by Alain Resnais’ Last Year in Marienbad, we were even more delighted to learn of Mr. Lagerfeld’s upcoming collaboration with Sears Roebuck. A Chanel spokesman has referred this new foray as haute quincaillerie,or high wardware. The collection will debut next summer and will feature custom powertools made with rare, luxe materials – rumor has it that a limited-edition chainsaw will be lined with diamonds-as well as paints inspired by Chanel’s line of nail polish. Locally, the collection will be available at the Chanel flagship on Kalakaua Avenue.

(If you did not get it yet, the above is, unfortunately, a spoof. The fine objet above was created by artist Tom Sachs back in 1996.)

The Poetry of a Wind Machine: Alexander Wang Fall 2010 Promo

Kaila Hawai`i — Thu, 09 Sep 2010 21:26:18 +0000

New York Fashion Week has kicked off again, and we’re feeling the breeze of excitement thousands of miles away. And what a better way to feel the enthusiasm than with this promo film for Alexander Wang’s Fall 2010 collection? Directed by Craig McDean and art directed by Fabien Lebaron, this nifty little clip takes up that locus communis, or common place theme, of a rush of wind through superbly coiffed hair. Nice to know that, after all these years, you can still use a wind machine — not to mention a moody interior and a few ecstatic expressions — to set a mood.

You’re the Crema in My Coffee

Kaila Hawai`i — Sat, 19 Jun 2010 20:12:42 +0000

When we’re not going local with our coffee, our favorite place for a little kaffeeklatsch is Crema Coffee Bar at the Honolulu Design Center. The coffee is classic Illy, and the sandwiches and pastries are from the same kitchen as Stage on the Design Center’s second floor. With the building’s modern design, Crema is a great spot to get away from the ho-hum. Plus, it’s right near Kaila favs Aloha Rag and Jimmy Choo. And we think an Illy coffee cup makes a far better accessory than one from Starbucks, as we demonstrate in our Jimmy Choo-Illy combo above. (On a side note, check out the clip on our post on American Vogue editor Anna Wintour to see which coffee graces Vogue’s offices in New York’s Times Square.)

DETAILS

Crema Coffee Bar

Honolulu Design Center

1st Floor

1250 Kapiʻolani Boulevard

Honolulu, Hawaiʻi 96814

Open from 7 am, Monday – Saturday

Open from 8 am, Sunday

EDITORIAL NOTE

In case you didn’t catch the cultural reference in the title, it comes from the song “You’re the Cream in My Coffee,” once performed by many. But we like the version sung by the one and only Mr. Nat King Cole.

“Through Darkness to Light” with Megan Fox, Hilary Rhoda, & Marlon Teixeira

Kaila Hawai`i — Sun, 13 Jun 2010 22:00:17 +0000

We across this gorgeous fashion-meets-art-house clip via Wallpaper* magazine. It’s a kind of cinematic triptych, moving, as its title aptly suggests, from darkness to light.

THE LOWDOWN

“From Darkness to Light”

Directed by Mariano Vivanco
Starring Megan Fox, Hilary Rhoda, and Marlon Texeira.

In the almost vampiric first segment, Megan Fox runs through the streets of Paris at night, while the film closes in color-drenched shots of Hilary Rhoda. The middle section, featuring Brazilian model Marlon Texeira, apparently is an older clip called “Higher States,” originally shot for British label Qasimi’s Spring Summer 2010 men’s collection. Peruvian-born photographer Vivanco has done editorial shoots for the likes of Numero, Vogue Nippon, Allure, and Details.

The film comes from the video gallery of Imagine Fashion, whose full fashion blog is soon to launch. In the meantime, we’ll be exploring the other fashion clips.

Classic Calvin: Calvin Klein Resort 2011

Kaila Hawai`i — Sat, 12 Jun 2010 22:13:40 +0000

This past week in New York, Calvin Klein Collection designer Francisco Costa served up a women’s resort collection that was classic Calvin – elegant, simple, and unfettered. One of our favorite pieces was a creamy knee-length dress sported by Jac (above left). At another high point, the gorgeous Karmen Pedaru (above right) donned a crisp and cool sleeveless dress in a brilliant white with beautiful geometric pleating, which seemed to be a gentle reworking of Costa’s architecturally-driven Spring 2009 collection. Against this kind of minimalist backdrop, a velvet evening dress – worn by Kristy Kaurova (above center) – caught the eye with its vibrant yellow and has earned a nod from the fashion media.

THE SHOW

THE SOUNDTRACK

Simply minimalist in wash of guitar riffs and beats courtesy of Toro Y Moi and Krikor – The Dead Hillbillies. On a fashion note, it’s interesting to see that the same Toro Y Moi track started off the Gudrun & Gudrun show during Copenhagen Fashion Week.

REVIEWS

Resort Report | Calvin Klein’s Palate Cleanser – New York Times Style Magazine
Calvin Klein Resort 2011 Collection – Style.com
A Look at Resort 2011: Calvin Klein – Vogue.com

MORE CALVIN

See the full collection at Calvin Klein Collection Women.

CREDITS

Photography by Don Ashby

Mediocrity is out: Anna Wintour on 60 Minutes

Kaila Hawai`i — Thu, 03 Jun 2010 10:04:46 +0000

This past Sunday, CBS reaired veteran journalist Morley Safer’s 2009 interview with Anna Wintour, Editor-in-Chief of American Vogue, on 60 Minutes.

While I consider myself much more inclined towards Carine Roitfeld and French Vogue, I had to give Ms. Wintour her due respect when Mr. Safer asked her a simple but profound question.

SAFER: What bores you the most?

WINTOUR: Mediocrity.

Surprised, I couldn’t help but nod in agreement.

The rest of Mr. Safer’s profile of the editor who inspired The Devil Wears Prada is entertaining as it’s clearly told from the perspective of an older gentleman used to tacking more “serious” issues as opposed to the seemingly trivial nature of fashion. Take, for instance, the expression on his face when he’s talking to Dior designer John Galliano wearing some kind of leopard-print hat. It was probably Safer’s detatchment (and journalistic stature) from all things fashion that made him an ideal choice to interview someone of Wintour’s reputation. Face-to-face with Safer, Wintour seems almost nervous, making her a bit more human… at least, until the Chanel sunglasses go back on.

MORE VOGUE

See the 60 Minutes interview here.
For more on Wintour’s French counterpart, Carine Roitfeld – once dubbed the Anti-Anna – check out the always entertaining I Want to Be a Roitfeld.
Also compare fashion insiders’ opinon of Roitfeld in the CNN profile on Roitfeld found on our earlier Roitfeld post. While Wintour’s name seems to be inspire supressed terror, Roitfeld’s actually brings a smile to their faces.

In True Style: Mr. Alexander Skarsgård on the cover of V Man

Kaila Hawai`i — Sat, 29 May 2010 23:31:31 +0000

While stocking on the latest fashion mags recently, our eyes caught sight of Mr. Alexander Skårsgard (it’s pronounced skarsh-gard)on the cover of V Man, the edgy quarterly published by the same team behind the ultra-luxe fashion publication Visionaire. The Summer 2010 edition of V Man features Mr. Skarsgård and the other Nordic artists, musicians, and actors who are making quite an impression on the fashionista set. The V Man appearance coincides with his special appearance on the cover of the more mainstream Details. Though Mr. Skarsgård has appeared in Swedish films since his youth and a variety of English-language productions, his career skyrocketed since he made his appearance on HBO’s True Blood as Eric, a thousand year-old Viking turned vampire.

MORE ON ALEXANDER SKARSGÅRD

You can see the return of Eric when season 3 of True Blood begins June 13. In the meantime, visit Skarsgårdnews.com for the latest on the Swedish star after checking out this minisode of Eric with his vamp cohort Pam, played by Ms. Kristin Bauer. Caveat: those with timid tastes that don’t watch cable may not want to watch.

Love, Sex, and Betrayal Never Sounded Better: Selvmord’s “OK”

Kaila Hawai`i — Sat, 29 May 2010 22:56:48 +0000

Danish group Selvmord’s hot track “OK” has quickly become one of our favorite track of Summer 2010. From what we’ve seen online, Selvmord is marketed in Europe as a rap group. But their sound has a bit too much of a teutonic slickness to file them neatly away somewhere between Tupac and Ludacris. If anything, Selvmord’s aesthetic, built upon its phat beats tastefully dusted with rough and dirty electronics, reminds us of Brit band Massive Attack - a kind of Nordic cousin to Massive Attack’s Mezzanine from the late nineties. Selvmord’s music is the kind of thing you’d want to brood fashionably to in a loft while sipping gin and wearing vintage Helmut Lang… well, before the economic. (Actually, perhaps afterwards.)

THE MEANING

We realize, of course, that some people have a hard time listening to music in a language they don’t understand. Consider, for instance, how many people listen to American music around the world without knowing much English.

But we’re not ones to leave people lost in translation. The video does a good job at conveying the jist behind “OK.” A young Nordic vixen with smoky eyes reminiscent of Helena Christensen and guys with tats and a pissed off attitude, who, despite all their big words and macho posturing, still get paint thrown right in their face.

When we put the lyrics for “OK” through Google Translate, we were faced with a stormy tale of love, jealousy, sex, and betrayal, covered by silence but immediately revealed by a simple look in the eyes–all understandably laced with a dash of tasteful profanity.