Kaila Hawai'i

Along with over 8,000 people worldwide, I watched the A/W 2010 men’s collection from Calvin Klein Collection online on February 14, 2010. I took it as a Valentine to all those who appreciate minimalist design.

Lean and mean for everyday

I love the sheer lean, sharp, serious quality to this collection. GQ’s review is on target when it describes the collection as “crisp, angular, and authoritative as hell”. The futuristic element that Italo Zucchelli has introduced to the men’s line is still present. But this time, it’s more integrated into a real world sensibility without losing its éclat, or spark, as they’d say in French.

Pieces on the wishlist

While much of the construction was quite attractive, these are the favorites of Kaila Hawai’i.

Iron Cuoio Two Button Sport Jacket | Bonded Plongee Leather/Ribbed Merino Jacket

Ottoman Rib Hooded Sweater, espcially in cloud white.

Onyx Rubber Overcoat and the Bonded Sueded/Denim Engineered Pant

Details on all looks at Calvin Klein Collection – Men Fall 2010 lookbook.

(All photos – Source: GQ | Photo: Andrew Thomas)

The aesthetics of walking

One small change I noticed happily was the overall change in model’s walk from the Spring 2010 showing. Gone was the stiff gait that dominated much of the Spring collection’s appearance. Aside from Mr. David Agbodji-see more and less of him here-very few of the men seemed to have mastered the “back from the future” walk that the house was going for with that presentation. On this outing, the men opted for a more direct, boldly confident stride that had an almost militaristic quality at times. (A few did have an odd robotic quality with how they took corners. )

A touch of Grace?

(Source: GQ | Photo: Andrew Thomas)

Is it me or does Mr. Agbodji’s appearance seem to be referencing Grace Jones?  The cut of his hair and the sharp blazers are reminiscent of Ms. Jones on her 1981 album Nightclubbing.

The soundtrack

The sound of the collection is built around various around a them, well, remixes that is. The sound design integrates several different mixes of “Basic Space” by up-and-coming Brit band The XX.

• Basic Space – Jamie xx Mix
• Basic Space – Mount Kimbie/Diskjokke remixes
• Basic Space (Astronomer remix)
• Basic Space (M.A.T.H.E.S remix)

Here’s the original version in the slick video by directed by Anthony Dickinson.

Tags: Autumn/Winter 2010, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Collection, David Agbodji, fashion, GQ, Italo Zucchelli, men's fashion, The XX

As all eyes have moved onto New York Fashion Week, I’m still happy to have discovered the smaller yet sophisticated Copenhagen Fashion Week. One of the most delightful “discoveries”—this, of course, for someone living on the other side of the world—is By Malene Birger.  The house was launched five years ago by Danish designer Birger, who seems to be quite well appreciated by British Vogue. (And, may I say, when I opened up French Vogue’s February issue yesterday, guess whose ad I saw?)  But the publicity is well deserved. And By Malene Birger’s latest outing proves it. Autumn/Winter 2010 collection was relaxed and elegant with a occasional infusion of luxe. Take the fur vest that the first model strutted down an indoor field of autumn leaves… luxurious yet approachable. At other times, comfy sweatpants were paired blazers for a cofident, easy-going look.

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Tags: Autumn/Winter 2010, By Malene Birger, Copenhagen Fashion Week, fashion, Spring/Summer 2010

After all the visits to Kaila Hawai’i since the Gudrun & Gudrun post over the weekend–I never thought fashion from the remote Faroe Islands would be such a draw–take a look at the runway show for Gudrun & Gudrun’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection from last week’s Copenhagen Fashion Week. Until I saw this, I never thought wool could actually be so crazy cool. Of course, tattoos usually help.

Source: Copenhagen Fashion Week TV; Copenhagen Fashion Week

P.S. Several songs on the soundtrack are by group Toro Y Moi, though I’m not sure if they did do the first track.

Tags: Autumn/Winter 2010, Copenhagen Fashion Week, Faroe Islands, fashion, Gudrun & Gudrun, Gudrun og Gudrun, Toro Y Moi

Before going back into Nordic fashion, I thought it’d might be a good idea to head back to the Pacific. I’m currently digging the new Tukupu line of tanks and tees from Tikidub, the production company founded by Māori recording artist Tiki Taane. Designed by Inia Taylor and Illicit for Tikidub, each tee features the graffiti print and the phrase “Dub Soldier”.

How to Buy

All of you into fashion rareties can gear yourself up with a product that probably hasn’t been seen outside of Aotearoa/New Zealand. Buy direct from the Tikidub Shop. (You can also buy Tiki’s tracks there as well.)

More on Tiki

You can read more about Tiki and his groundbreaking single “Tangaroa” here.

Tags: Aotearoa, Illicit, Inia Taylor, Māori, New Zealand, Tiki Taane, Tikidub, Tukupu

These rocking kids pieces from Gudrun & Gudrun – Ovitar  line deserved a post all of their own. While the (cute) attitude is due much in part to the hair style and styling, I can’t help but wish I had things like this to wear at this little one’s age. Just too adorable.

What he’s wearing

Top – Traditional Cardigan. Bottom – Sweater Republic.

Where to buy

Available from Gudrun & Gudrun’s online store

Tags: cardigans, childrenswear, Gudrun & Gudrun, Gudrun og Gudrun, sweaters

Gudrun & Gudrun’s Autumn/Winter 2010 showing in Copenhagen reminded me that style doesn’t always originate in the world’s urban centers, an idea that we should take more to heart in the Pacific region.  Gudrun & Gudrun, in fact, comes from the very antipodes of the fashion capitals. The label was founded by two women from the Faroe Islands, a remote chain of islands in the North Atlantic with a population of just 45,000 with a language closely related to Old Norse. The label’s unique look comes from the isolation of the Faroe Islands paired with an occasional burst of energy from Europe.

However, it’s not just Gudrun & Gudrun’s distance that makes G&G gear simultaneously comforting yet so cool. Key to the label’s sensibility is their credo of ”slow fashion”, which was developed into a book of the same title. The core material of their collection is wool and hide from the islands’ sheep, introduced by the Vikings over 1,000 years ago. The chilling, rugged environment creates wool of exceptional quality and resiliance.  Not only are the label’s materials sourced from its home. The label’s most exquisite pieces are handcrafted by women from the Faroe Islands in the comfort of their homes, not in some invisible, nameless factory.

But as these runways shots from G&G’s showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week A/W 2010 (see more of the collection here), G&G is not about folklore of yesteryear. Some of these pieces are ineffably modern and edgy but emanate a surprising warmth nevertheless. I would imagine Vikings from some futuristic, sci-fi saga suiting up in these kind of deconstructed sweaters and boots.

It’s this kind of fashion that makes me miss the chill of winter. Thankfully, G&G does offer a Spring/Summer collection for those who brave warmer climates. Nevertheless, I’d say aim for something short-sleeve like the Nicolai Hole vest. Of course, the  Sweater with Diamonds is still tempting for anywhere with heavy air conditioning.

Gudrun & Gudrun – The Breakdown

Who Wears It

Apparently, G&G is popular amongst the Faroese themselves. It comes as no surprise as that G&G counts the Japanese amongst their main international fans.

Rarity Factor

Despite the Japanese fan contingent, G&G is not widely available, making a G&G Faroese sweater a visual standout. Even on the web, G&G is a rarity, except for this post we found from distant Finland. However, judging from the hipness of the G&G image, I doubt this will last for much longer. G&G has received coverage from the likes of WWD and Italian Vogue. The label will also be having showings in New York, Milan, and Paris.

Website

http://www.gudrungudrun.com

For a company from somewhere so isolated, G&G has created quite an up-to-date website. Its current incarnation features video footage of dances from New York’s Stephen Petronio Dance Company wearing G&G pieces.

How to Buy

Much of the G&G collection is available from its online store in USD. As tempting as many pieces are, I’m afraid how much it would cost to ship half way around the world. Of course, G&G does have a flagship store in Torshavn, the Faroese capital, which is becoming a visitor destination of its own. (Check New York Times’ visit back in 2007 here.)

Tags: Autumn/Winter 2010, Copenhagen Fashion Week, Faroe Islands, Gudrun & Gudrun, Gudrun og Gudrun, slow fahion, Spring/Summer 2010, Stephen Petronio Dance Company, Vikings

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I swear the spirit of Carine Roitfeld must be haunting me…. or, at least, her legacy as a stylist before becoming renowned fashion editor at French Vogue.  Awhile ago, I was browsing photographer’s Mario Testino’s über-cool site, going through his archives. I came across his shoot he did for the Calvin Klein Spring 1999 campaign featuring the one and only Kate Moss. (Ms. Moss’ brooding  male counterpart, by the way, is Mr. Colin Branca, who still works in the industry.)  Shortly therefafter, I learned, via the Fashion Spot, that the stylist was none other than Ms. Roitfeld herself. So not only did Ms. Roitfeld shaped my style consciousness via the triumvirate she formed with Testino and Tom Ford in the Gucci era–you can catch the earlier meditation on their work here–but she also influenced me stateside through the architectonic designs of the one and only Mr. Klein.

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Tags: 1999, Calvin Klein, Carine Roitfeld, Colin Branca, fin-de-siècle, Kate Moss, Mario Testino, nineties, Proust

Model: Angela Lindvall | Source: Models.com

We hold a special place in our hearts for the clean modernity and grace of Scandinavian design. Right now, we’re especially enamored of the Fusion Collection from Danish house Georg Jensen.

In this photo from the house’s gorgeous spring campaign from last year, American model Angela Lindvall (recently seen in Jimmy Choo’s hot campaign) is wearing the Bangle Fusion 1151 in Yellow, White, and Red 18 carat gold, White Gold Fusion Bangle with Diamonds, and a Fusion ring.

All pieces are available online at Georg Jensen. Or stop by in person at the Georg Jensen store at the Halekūlani Hotel. You may want to stop by at House without a Key for a signature mai tai to ease the wallet burn. Sometimes, good design does cost. But don’t the finer things always do?

Tags: Angela Lindvall, Fusion Collection, Georg Jensen, Halekulani, jewellery, Jimmy Choo, Scandinavian design

[Image source: model.com]

This season, the campaign for Calvin Klein Collection for me took a different direction from last season. While Francisco Costa’s collection for women delved into the organic, award-winning Italo Zucchelli went right into the future. Some of the jackets out of the spring 2010 and this past fall 2009 collections would have beenquite  perfect for last year’s Star Trek.

But I digress… I’m loving the shimmer and shine of the new campaign by famed photograher Steven Klein. Model David Agbodji is a real standout and a refreshing change in look for the brand if you catch my drift. After all, diversity is something tobe appreciated. Futhermore, he is one of the models that was able to master the slick, futuristic walk for the Calvin Klein Collection spring show while some of his fellow models looked more like stilted androids.

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Tags: Calvin Klein Collection, David Agbodji, Grace Jones, Italo Zucchelli, Spring 2010 Campaigns, Steven Klein

Photographed by David Sims, the new Spring 2010 Calvin Klein Collection for women campaign features Monica Jagaciak, also known as Jac. This is her second, and back-to-back, appearance for Calvin Klein Collection. Jac has already been hailed as the new face of Calvin Klein going into the new decade. [via Fashion Gone Rogue]

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Tags: advertising, Calvin Klein Collection, Chris Isaak, Christy Turlington, David Sims, Eternity, Geroge Nakashima, Helen Christensen, Herb Ritts, Jac, models, Monica Jagaciak, nineties, Spring 2010 Campaigns, Wicked Game