While it’s hard to beat a bottle of Champagne in our books, the economic crisis has made us think twice before shelling out for imported bubbly.  During our recent runs to Tamura’s and R. Field, we’ve been putting a particualrly fine Californian sparkler into our basket instead.  While many Californian sparkling wines have left us feeling less than enthusiastic – especially since they’re priced higher than comparable but more satisfying offerings from Spain and Italy – J Cuvée 20 Brut has renewed our faith in domestic sparkling wines. It’s an elegant blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier with notes of Fuji apple and honeysuckle – a perfect way to wrap up a long work week without breaking the piggy bank.

WHERE TO BUY

J Cuvée 20 Brut is available in Honolulu from two of our favorite wine purveyors:

Tamura’s Fine Wine and Liquors

3496 Waiʻalae Avenue, 808 735 7100

R. Field Wine Company

At Foodland, 460 South Beretania Street, 808 596 9463

Those who prefer alcohol to come to them can have a case of J Cuvée 20 Brut shipped directly by Wine.com.

MORE ON J CUVÉE 20

Learn more about this great sparkling wine from J. Vineyards and Winery.

In general, I prefer my cocktails on the lean and mean side, such as a classic gin Martini or the bourbon-based Old Fashioned. Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule. For me, these include a well-crafted Cosmopolitan (made with real cranberry juice, Cointreau, and a fine citrus-vodka) and the Mai Tai.

When I lived away from Hawaiʻi nei, I developed quite an affinity for the Mai Tai, which always felt like sunshine in the cup. According to my Internet bartender of choice, Mr. Robert Hess,  the Mai Tai was created back in 1944 at Victor “Trader Vic” Bergeron at his Trader Vic’s restaurant in Oakland, California. The story goes that a few guests from Tahiti tasted it and exclaimed, “Maitaʻi roa aʻe!” Often, this phrase is translated as “Out of this world!”. But to my Hawaiian ears, it seems more like “Really, really good!” In any case, the word maitaʻi stuck, but the glottal stop was eliminated, leading to the twangy “my-tie” pronunciation. Thankfully, the quality of this tropical cocktail surpasses any minor aversion its name may produce.

Where to Drink It

Despite its fame, it’s hard to find an exceptional Mai Tai. The worst can taste like alcohol and lead to a headache more memorable than the drink itself. But there are a few Oʻahu establishments that do offer a fine Mai Tai. For instance, the Mai Tai in the photos above comes from the Mai Tai Bar at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel at Helumoa, Waikīkī. The outdoor bar offers a few sophisticated variations of the original recipe. I personally prefer the Royal Mai Tai, which includes fresh squeezed pineapple, fresh squeezed orange juice, cherry-vanilla purée, Bacardi Superior,  Cointreau, and Amaretto Di Disaronno liqueur topped with Whaler’s Dark Rum.

Another favorite spot is the House without a Key at the Halekūlani at Kawehewehe, Waikīkī. While House without a Key does not offer the variations on the theme, the Mai Tai at the Halekūlani (above) is sophisticated nonetheles. Moreover, it’s a perfect complement for the hula stylings of Ms. Kanoe Miller, who performs at House with a Key from Monday to Saturday.

I have also enjoyed some exceptional Mai Tai at Indigo in Chinatown. But let me offer this caveat: it all depends on the bartender. When I brought a perfumer friend visiting from New York to the Green Room awhile back, a tatted Thai bartender pulled off a Mai Tai with panache. On another night, a young twenty-something behind the bar could only make a sub-par disappointment. I’ll therefore suggest you try a Mai Tai at Indigo on a slower evening, when the youngsters are away and the downtown business crowd seeks real libations.

How to Make It

If you’d like to attempt it, making a Mai Tai ʻono enough that you’ll say “Maitaʻi roa aʻe!” will require that you stock up on a few quality ingredients. The classic recipe below comes from Mr. Robert Hess’ website DrinkBoy. While many do insist on the pineapple garnish, I’d suggest finding a more elegant accompaniment.

1 ounce light rum
1 ounce gold rum
1/2 ounce orange curaçao
1/2 ounce orgeat
1/2 ounce lime juice
Garnish: Float of dark rum, and garnish with speared pineapple chunk and cherry.
Shake with ice. Strain into an ice filled Old Fashioned glass.

Addresses

House without a Key

Halekūlani
2199 Kālia Road
Honolulu, Hawaiʻi 96815
808 923 2311

Indigo

1121 Nuʻuanu Avenue
Honolulu, Hawaiʻi 96817
808 521 2900

Mai Tai Bar

Royal Hawaiian Hotel
2259 Kalākaua Avenue
Honolulu, Hawaiʻi 96815
808 923 7311

Staying on the foodie theme, I particularly appreciate Lora Zarubin’s sushi article (fish) (delicious) (November 2009 issue) with its helpful guidelines and great photography. Never have I seen raw fish (above) so closely resemble some kind of stylish accessory (what kind of accessory though, I can’t say). Plus, it’s the first time I’ve seen a guide on how to eat sushi with your hand (below), which, I’ve been told, is how it’s really supposed to be done (at least, for nigiri).

Read more of the Los Angeles Times Magazine here.

Credits

Photography: Victoria Pearson | Illusration: Jameson Simpson for the Los Angeles Times Magazine.

The utterly thirst-inspiring cocktail featured in the photo above is the one and only Sazerac. Invented back in 1833 by Antoine Amédie Peychaud, owner of a New Orleans apothecary, the Sazerac in its modern incarnation is a satisfying mix of rye whisky or bourbon, Herbsaint, Peychaud’s Bitters, a sugar cube and a slice of lemon peel. I was introduced to it a few years ago by a savvy barman, and the impression has remained with me ever since.

Very few bars on O’ahu offer the Sazerac, but then again, we are a significant distance from New Orleans. One downtown establishment, whose name I shall kindly refrain from mentioning, offers a certain kind of Sazerac. Unfortunately, their version leaves me far from satiated and craving the genuine McCoy.

Thankfully, an expert bartender at one of my favorite Honolulu eateries, the fantastic Town located on Wai’alae Avenue in Kaimukī, makes a superb Sazerac. A friend and I out for drinks snapped a shot of this Sazerac on the anniversary of the repeal of Prohibition and lifted a toast to connoisseurs of fine drinks everywhere.

I’m not certain if all the bartenders at Town are familiar with the Sazerac, so try to check ahead. (Thankfully, Town has an array of other satisfying alcoholic concoctions in case you can’t get a taste of New Orleans.)

To learn more

• “How the Sazerac Cocktail Came to Be”

To drink more

Sometimes, it’s the small things that count, especially during the holidays. Take the Nuance Wine Finer, for instance. By far, it’s one of the best small presents we’ve ever received.

You simply slip the Wine Finer into the bottle of your choice to improve the flavor and bouquet of every glass. When you pour from the bottle, the wine is aerated. (This is similar to the more complicated decanting process but without the fancy carafe and candlelight.) By oxidizing the wine, you open up the inherent qualities in a wine, especially in a younger wine that has hadn’t the chance to mature. Moreover, even a commonly available wine can gain in taste with the Wine Finer. Anxious to try it out on Christmas night, we tried the Wine Finer on Coppola Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon and experienced a burst of red fruit flavor that we hadn’t tasted before with this particular cab.  And if you’d like to save the bottle for the next day, just slip the cap in, and the Wine Finer will keep your wine for the next day.

While aerating wine is generally recommended for red wines, we’ll follow the advice of New York Times critic Eric Asimov, who suggests that white wines can also gain in taste by some aeration. (We’re looking forward to the taste test.)

Even better, the Wine Finer is Danish in design, meaning you can appreciate its aesthetic qualities just as much as its function. (We personally think the matte silicone is ultra cool.)

The Nuance Wine Finer is currently available online  from Wine Enthusiast for $24.95.

Last week, I was faced with an insurmountable task: read… revise that, go through… several hundred pages by 19th century French author whom I don’t care very much. After much gnashing of teeth and procrastination, I finally sat down on Monday evening at 6 pm to take on George Sand. (I should note that, despite the name, George was, in fact, a woman.) By 7 pm, my mind was wandering far off course. I couldn’t manage to stomach any more melodramatic descriptions of her wanderings through Italy.  I needed to take action and fast in order to make it through the night. Thankfully, I had on hand a bottle of Joseph Drouhin Saint-Véran 2006 already chiled in the fridge. The Saint-Véran takes its name after the village of the same name in Bourgogne, or Burgundy. Made entirely from Chardonnay grapes, it was floral with a wash of citrus that was truly enchanting. And thanks to this wonderful Bourgogne, I was able to make it through the night and the rest of George Sand.

On what would’ve been a mellow Wednesday Honolulu evening, the Kaila Hawai‘i team and friends went out on the town  this past November 4 to mark the launch of Project P.E.P., a special collaboration between the house of Jimmy Choo (known for its high glam shoes and handbags) and the Elton John AIDS Foundation. The night was smashing fun with drinks and nibbles from Pearl at Ala Moana and retro grooves. We were happy to see friends from local businesses, arts organizations, and non-profits, including The Place, Animo Kingdom, Hawai‘i State Ballet, the Moana Surfrider, and the University of Hawai‘i. A special nod goes to Cora Spearman of The Place Honolulu for her rocking fashions for the evening, which just serendipitously happened to match the Jimmy Choo Fall 2009 collection. (We’re thinking specifically of the Odette handbag and the Cara clutch . You just had to see her tights to understand.)

Kaila Hawai‘i sends out special mahalo a nui to Joelle Hashimoto, Rose Horikawa, Desmond Kāne Balbin, Christine Smith, and Garrett Segawa of the  Jimmy Choo Ala Moana team for a fantastic evening and supporting a great cause! Select pieces from Project P.E.P. are still available at the Ala Moana store for a limited time. (Browse collection pieces of the Jimmy Choo website.)

In the photo set above:

1. Joelle Hashimoto, Jimmy Choo; Cora Spearman, owner -  The Place, and guests
2. Friends of Jimmy Choo

In the set above:

1. Holly Kim and Erin Stickley
2. Elegant daughter and mother pair Nicole Love, Common Cause, and Kazuko Love, Japan-America Society Hawaii
3. Jragen Moki Anderson, owner – Animo Kingdom; Raquel Avila; Jessi Bruce
4. Zachary Tomashosky and guest

In the set above:

1. Kai Andersen, founder of Kaila Hawai’i; Cora Spearman, The Place
2. Céline Labrador, Matt Cavert, Lesley Ann Culver, Holly Kim
3. Friends from Hawai’i State Ballet
4. Desmond Kāne Balbin, Jimmy Choo; Sumi Omatsu, Moana Lani Spa – Moana Surfrider Hotel

6 pm, June 12, 2009

Kaka‘ako, Kona, O‘ahu-a Lua

The past few weeks has been hectic for the Kaila Hawai‘i team as we look for a new live-in combo work space in what we’ll call the “Honolulu metro area” (now, how many times have you heard that expression?) on a shoestring budget. The frequent result has been frazzled nerves, late-night cocktails (martinis or sidecars have been the preferred liquid remedy), and extra helpings of eye cream come 7 am. Despite the stress, we did manage to turn in a Makiki parking experience into a reality TV moment, singing the “Turn Around” verse of the 80s hit “Total Eclipse of the Heart” when we had to actually turn the car around.  (And we don’t forgot to kūnou to the groovy dude with the dreads and the vintage car who smiled from across the street.)

In any case, after all of that, this Kaila editor had to take a sanity break before heading home. After scoping out the Border’s discount rack and finding a great coffee table book (Hip Hollywood Homes, just for $3.99, down from $40) for the theoretical new moe pēpē (that’s ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i for “crib”, folks), I headed over to Satura Cakes for a beautifully made double macchiatto ($3). Mahalo a nui to the stylish and bespeckled barista whose name I did not catch but whose enthusiasm for coffee I deeply appreciate.

While the design book is circa 2006 and many of the interiors already redone, who wouldn’t be inspired by Sex and the City producer Darren Starr’s sexy pad with the cool pool ? (Page 29 in the pic above is in fact his L.A. residence.) Sipping the caffinated concoction, I saw myself with Carrie Bradshaw sipping Beautifuls après la fête. (Of course, the Samantha in me thought of other, more kolohe things to do as well.)

Now, for the soundtrack, Bonnie Tyler’s “Total Eclipse of the Heart”. (Watch out, 80’s hair… now you know, we’re on the edge.)

Kauwela, the Hawaiian summer, has been ablaze for some weeks now, and I find myself fleeing from the midday heat. Of course, nothing beats the heat like a cool cocktail. One of my favorite spiked remedies, the caipirnha, is from Brazil, where it is widely considered the national drink.What’s great is that ingredients are few, and it’s even relatively easy to make with the right tools (you’ll need a pestle). The prime ingredient is cachaça, a kind of Brazilian run made from sugar. Unlike more standard light rums, cachaça seems liveler, bright, and invigorating. While it’s not a standard item at most places on O‘ahu, two brands are available at Tamura’s-my favorite imporium-on Wai‘alae Avenue in Kaimukī. And I’ve even spotted it at Longs’. Two brands I’ve seen in the islands (and subsequently enjoyed) are Leblon and Agua Luca.

After completing your cachaça run, you’ll need to pick up some limes, preferrably organic as the fruit will be goint directly into your glass. Whole Foods in Kāhala or my favorite, Kokua Market in Mō‘ili‘ili, tend to have great organic limes in stock. Besides that, the other two ingredients are standard items – sugar and crushed ice.

But don’t forget to pick up a pestle-a small wooden baton used to crush spices in mortar. My own personal psetle is a Japanese shiribachi I picked up at the Executive Chef down at Ward Warehouse. But as this is Hawai‘i, a pestle of any national origin will due. Of course, a pestle isn’t absolutely necessary. An acquaitance of mine, actually from Brazil and quite familiar with caiprinhas, personally suggested a  bunch of chopsticks held together by a rubber band if you’re ever out of a pestle, so feel free to get creative and pound out your frustrations.

Of course, if hunting down foreign liquor and smashing limes sounds like too much work, rest assured you can let Honolulu’s bar staff do the hard work for you. I suggest heading down to Soul de Cuba , across from the Hawai‘i Theatre, or trying the Caipirinha de Uva at Town in Kaimukī.

RECIPE

Ingredients

• 1 shot cachaça
• 1-2 tsp sugar
• 1 organic lime – sliced into small sections

Wash limes thoroughly, dry, and slice into small sections. (I slice into eights personally.) Add lime and sugar to a highball glass and crush with pestle (or chopstick assemblage, etc.) to release the lime juice. Add crushed ice. Finally add  cachaça. As the drink sits in the heat, the ice will gracefully melt.

WHERE TO STOCK UP

Kāhala -  Whole Foods, 4211 Wai‘alae Avenue,  Honolulu, HI 96816, 808 738 0820

Kaimukī – Tamura’s Fine Wines and Liquours, 3496 Waialae Ave, Honolulu, HI, 808 735 7100 -

Kaka‘ako – Executive Chef, Ward Warehouse, 1050 Ala Moana Blvd # 1560, Honolulu, HI 96814, 808 596 2433

Mō‘ili‘ili -  Kōkua Market, 2643 S. King St ,Honolulu, HI 96826, 808 941 1922

THE EASY ROUTE (For those who prefer to avoid the labor)

Downtown – Soul de Cuba, Bethel Street,1121 Bethel St, Honolulu, HI 96813, 808 545 2822

Kaimukī – Town, Wai’alae Avenue,3435 Waialae Avenue #103, Honolulu, HI 96813, 808 735 5900

[Images by Simeon - stock.xchng]