One of the supreme highlights of Francisco Costa’s women’s ready-to-wear show for Calvin Klein Collection was the appearance of Polish model Monika Jagaciak, or simply, “Jac”. She opened the show, which turned out to be one of Costa’s most minimalist and spare since he took over as women’s designer from Mr. Klein himself in 2004. In my eyes, it seemed as an evolution of ideas first presented in his fall 2007 and spring 2009 shows. (Cecilia Dean, founder of the luxe fashion magazine Visionaire had appopriately described the latter show as “soft geometry” in an interview.) While the show seemed geared towards pragmatic but ever-so-cool dressing for everyday, Jac did sport one of Costa’s three spare, elegant evening dresses in silver silk Lurex. Calvin Klein’s live webcast, unfortunately, did not capture the intricacies of the fabric’s delicate grid pattern. It is good to know that, even with technology, you still need to be there in person to truly see it… That is, until houses start broadcasting in high-definition.

In the meantime, Jac can also be seen as the face of Calvin Klein Collection’s 2010 Spring Collection campaign.

Sources:

• Style.com | Photos: Marcio Madeira &  Greg Kessler, FirstView.com

Along with over 8,000 people worldwide, I watched the A/W 2010 men’s collection from Calvin Klein Collection online on February 14, 2010. I took it as a Valentine to all those who appreciate minimalist design.

Lean and mean for everyday

I love the sheer lean, sharp, serious quality to this collection. GQ’s review is on target when it describes the collection as “crisp, angular, and authoritative as hell”. The futuristic element that Italo Zucchelli has introduced to the men’s line is still present. But this time, it’s more integrated into a real world sensibility without losing its éclat, or spark, as they’d say in French.

Pieces on the wishlist

While much of the construction was quite attractive, these are the favorites of Kaila Hawai’i.

Iron Cuoio Two Button Sport Jacket | Bonded Plongee Leather/Ribbed Merino Jacket

Ottoman Rib Hooded Sweater, espcially in cloud white.

Onyx Rubber Overcoat and the Bonded Sueded/Denim Engineered Pant

Details on all looks at Calvin Klein Collection – Men Fall 2010 lookbook.

(All photos – Source: GQ | Photo: Andrew Thomas)

The aesthetics of walking

One small change I noticed happily was the overall change in model’s walk from the Spring 2010 showing. Gone was the stiff gait that dominated much of the Spring collection’s appearance. Aside from Mr. David Agbodji-see more and less of him here-very few of the men seemed to have mastered the “back from the future” walk that the house was going for with that presentation. On this outing, the men opted for a more direct, boldly confident stride that had an almost militaristic quality at times. (A few did have an odd robotic quality with how they took corners. )

A touch of Grace?

(Source: GQ | Photo: Andrew Thomas)

Is it me or does Mr. Agbodji’s appearance seem to be referencing Grace Jones?  The cut of his hair and the sharp blazers are reminiscent of Ms. Jones on her 1981 album Nightclubbing.

The soundtrack

The sound of the collection is built around various around a them, well, remixes that is. The sound design integrates several different mixes of “Basic Space” by up-and-coming Brit band The XX.

• Basic Space – Jamie xx Mix
• Basic Space – Mount Kimbie/Diskjokke remixes
• Basic Space (Astronomer remix)
• Basic Space (M.A.T.H.E.S remix)

Here’s the original version in the slick video by directed by Anthony Dickinson.

[Image source: model.com]

This season, the campaign for Calvin Klein Collection for me took a different direction from last season. While Francisco Costa’s collection for women delved into the organic, award-winning Italo Zucchelli went right into the future. Some of the jackets out of the spring 2010 and this past fall 2009 collections would have beenquite  perfect for last year’s Star Trek.

But I digress… I’m loving the shimmer and shine of the new campaign by famed photograher Steven Klein. Model David Agbodji is a real standout and a refreshing change in look for the brand if you catch my drift. After all, diversity is something tobe appreciated. Futhermore, he is one of the models that was able to master the slick, futuristic walk for the Calvin Klein Collection spring show while some of his fellow models looked more like stilted androids.

The gleaming, sculptural look of the campaign makes me think of Grace Jones’ iconic album from the eighties, Island Life. While there may not be a direct correlation between Jones and the campaign, Jones’ image had somethign of a revival over 2009. If this campaign means anything, it seems Mr. Agbodji is poised for greater successes this year. In the meantime, check out more of his aesthetic graces for Calvin Klein at Model.com.

Photographed by David Sims, the new Spring 2010 Calvin Klein Collection for women campaign features Monica Jagaciak, also known as Jac. This is her second, and back-to-back, appearance for Calvin Klein Collection. Jac has already been hailed as the new face of Calvin Klein going into the new decade. [via Fashion Gone Rogue]

[Image via Fashionologie]

I’m in love with the sheer naturalness and simplicity of Francisco Costa’s 2010 collection for Calvin Klein and find that the campaign helps to translate it into a different life. Of course, wouldn’t it be nice to lounge around with moistened hair and dewey skin by some George Nakashima table looking pensive? But I guess some of us do need to go to work after all…

In retrospect, the collection and campaign, now aeshetically paired, make me think of the Calvin Klein image back in the ninetes. In particular, the wet hair and clingy fabric just takes me back to Christy Turlington in those great Eternity ads.

Of course, the black and white cinematography and waves on the wind also parallels Chris Isaak and Helena Christensen rolling around on the black sand beaches of Hawai’i Island for his song “Wicked Game”, directed by the late and great Herb Ritts.

But then again, wasn’t part of the nineties aesthetic about black-and-white artsy moodiness and minimalism after all the excesses of the eighties? After way too much bling bling, I’m happy to see a revival of a more paired down look.